Saw a video today with a guy using soap to get spraypaint not to stick on something you have already painted.
I wanted to se if i could get similar results with regular oil.
I guess the result say yes.
Sorry about the bad lightning on the photo.
I’ve been really awe’d by the GoPro Camera videos you can find out on the internet. That and the contraptions ppl use to put cameras on their guitars for music videos. So when I found these two items:
Both 10 SEK each, amounting to a total of … 20 SEK.
After removing the legs and adding a new screw and bold (I had this before so I wont add it to the spreadsheet) it looks something like this:
Not bad for 3 minutes of work, not bad at all. There even was a hole ready so I did not have to drill one.
So where to put it?
On a a longboard ofcourse, I’m a bit focused on those right now. This here is Lukas’s longboard so we went out and tried it out for a bit. the camera was to heavy and the mount to flimsy. No software could unshake that shakyness, so I mounted it directly on a board, like this:
The resulting video was still to shaky to be useful, but if I use it with the original grip and put it on a keytar, this is the sort of awesomeness that follows:
Sorry about the repetition of information, but you know you guy’s that read here get to know LOADS more!
A few weeks back I bought two longboards from teknikmagasinet. These longboards are hyped asa “new classic” and being great a great all round longboard.
As per usual I did not really buy in to the market-speak but bought them solely to use the cheap truck and wheels on the longboards I make for my kids. Since Tova already have “big wheels” on her I put them on Lukas longboard. Before I did that though, I took it for a ride, these are my conclusions.
When searching for Talawa longboard on the internets you only get references to Teknikmagasinet, no product page.
1: There is no flex in the board, not at all. It could have been made from metal instead. No affordance at all for anything but super smooth asphalt.
2: The trucks are mounted on big ass riserpads, these and the shape makes the trucks work like ploughs. no affordance for gravel or twigs where you ride. I have no clue why you would design your board like that.
3: The wheels that had been facing the window in the store where miscoloured. to much exposure to sunlight I guess, the felt about the same though so I guess it’s just cosmetical.
4: I tried to turn, but failed. The bushings are hard, like superhard. I wigh 86kg and I was unable to make the board tilt more then a few degrees. This is the opposite of my usual problem. Releasing the bushings does not help much. They where very hard anyways. Needless to say, Lukas had to have new bushings (he’s really lightweight, as a 6-year old should be)
Apparently these are the trucks and wheels:
Wheels: Ape Venom PU 65×51 mm/85A
Bearings: ABEC-7 Carbon
Trucks: Seagull 6″ (15 cm)
Hope you have better luck in finding information on these on the internet.
In conclusion, if you want cheap trucks and wheels, you can get this. Expect to have to grease up the bearings, and change the bushings. Just dont expect to be able to ride the thing from the store to your home.
A few days a go I bought a litte machine that cuts things. What’s special about this one is that it’s sort of like a breed between a CNC machine and a printer. It’s nice. A computer controlled knife.
My main thought was to use it to cut stencils for t-shirt prints and the such and just ignore the ready made materials the same company produces, more on this later.
The machine I got is pink. That’s nice. I think they are trying to dominate the whole scrap booking community. I’m not a scrapbooker, far from it.
There are a few setbacks thogh. 1 you need to change “caps” on the knife to set a maximum depth. 1,2 and 3mm are the ones you can choose. In the printing program it tells you what cap to put on. I often forget this. You also need to have most materials on a piece of mildly adhesive plastic sheet called “carrier sheet”. The carrier sheet helps out in the way that the cut out parts stick in place. But it get’s cut through and the glue dries away etc, so you need to exchange it.
The materials that the same company produces are real great though. I bought black vinyl and white vinyl and brown heat transfer for fabric (t-shirt’s).
So If you do something like this
1: Google some nice black and white images of the comic book heroine Vampirella
2: Get it into Inkscape and convert it to a path.
3: Export it to dxf that the machines accompanying program can read, thank you Inkscape for providing this.
4: Open it into the program, which is really good, to open inkscape files in and set the printer up. If you are able to do something cool in this program I salute you!
5: Print, remove the part’s that should not be there and iron on to your t-shirt.
Pretty Nice result’s.
I’ve used this machine on the Longboard from last post both with Vinyl and as cutout for the stencil.
Am I happy with this machine for 1890:- SEK? I am indeed!
I’ve have had vacation. 4 weeks of doing stuff. Both bloggable and unbloggable things. Anyways, what I’m trying to say is, sorry for the lack of post’s lately. This one is going to be a short one aswell, but it will be an intro to a much longer one.
You see, I’ve been taking an interest in longboarding. I’ve have built about ten different boards these last two/three months. I’ve built two skateboard presses, the first one was outside while I was away and the rain destroyed it. preassure and moisture on wood is not a winning combination.
Later there will be post’s with images of the different boards, a few of them for my kids, a few for myself. And some just for the lulz.
Today I’m gonna show you the first one I pressed in my new press. And only the result. Not a how to.